Grey Knights Diorama/Display Board Completed

Tues nights work.  Started finishing the walls.  Suijin had a great idea of having squares on the long wall.  I've had a great time hanging out with a friend and getting to know him more over the last several days.

Everything lined up and holes cut out for LEDs.

Figure instead of putting up part 5 I would complete this thread.  Feel the wait is worth it.  Was so close to actually finishing Wed night.  The only thing to do then would be to magnetize the army.  That won't take long at all.  Then once its all done I will post it Fri.

Suijin had the great idea of putting plasti-card on the sides.  I agree.  Having "finished" walls looks great.  I would've kept it with styrofoam sides.

Right side of this panel is held down by electric tape to aluminum tape.  When batteries die can peel back the right side and put new ones in.

This will be a little difficult detailing but shouldn't have too much of an issue.

Squares providing some texture.

Last post I mentioned about having a secondary switch.  The switch on the right corner is a positive off switch.  Meaning that when its turned off there is no power going to any of the loads, lights.  This switch specifically turns on the white LEDs.  You'll noticed the blue LEDs aren't lit.

Crowe is the secondary switch for the blue LEDs.  He can't turn the blue lights by himself.  The magnets and aluminum tap affixed to his base make contact with the nails in the board.  Specifically the aluminum tape completes the circuit from one nail to another.  When the positive off switch is turned on and Crowe is on the base all lights turn on.  Little effect Suijin and I talked about and wanted with the lights.

Wed nights work.

Added finished walls on the top and sides.  Hot glue is hot!  Looks much better with finished walls.  Great call, Suijin.

Almost forgot to cut a slot for this LED.

Used Land Raider doors for templates of doors on platform.

Plasti-card is amazing.  Little cuts on the plastic and bending it makes it break even.  This stuff is great.

These are from Suijin.  Frames from Dreamforge models.  Love how their sprues work together.

Copper piping for tubing.  Looks great.  Another solid call.

Construction is done.  That was surprisingly fast.

Paints: Abaddon Black for base, drybrush Leadbelcher, wash Army Painter Strong Tone a.k.a. Devlin Mudd.

Poster tac to cover LEDs from airbrushing.

Blue tape for same.

OK.  Didn't think this all the way through.  Forgot that paper doesn't like water.  Deck plating started curling.  Hot glue gunned them down.  Hot glue guns are awesome.  Will be using that to make bases in the future.  Far more efficient than my current method.

Airbrushing wasn't turning out as expected.  Went with my original idea.  Jon Kovalic's  Armoury Black Primer.  Has to be the best black primer I've used so far.

Drybush Leadbelcher.

Wish I would've taken a pic while washing with Army Painter Strong Tone.  To show the difference of washed and unwashed deckplating.

Looking nice and worn.  Almost matching the grimdark atmosphere of 40k.

Mood lighting.  Without painting lights.

With painting lights.

Surprised well how the base looks on the display board.

Thurs nights work.

After airbrushing the hazard/caution stripes put down Abaddon Black to cover the yellow.

Door Leadbelcher.

Cleaned up the hazard stripes.

Army Painter Strong Tone, Devlin Mud, over Leadbelcher.

Hot glue gunned large door to board.  Diorama/Display Board is complete.  Army is magnetized to board.

Mood lighting.  Without painting lights.

With painting lights.

Special Thanks goes out to:

Ron - Inspiring me with his post on how to make Zone Mortalis bases.
Bryan - Helping with drafts.
Suijin - Constantly coming up with great ideas.  He was essential in making this look awesome.
Visitors to this blog - You keep me driven to paint models.
and, my Love - Supporting my interest in this hobby.


slainte mhath