 |
| This army was packed into ziplock baggies. Sorted by the type of unit. These cancer cast and metal rangers were in the same bag together. Most of the easily-warpedcast rangers barrels were broken off. Pinning was involved to reattach them. |
JJ modelling, this is an Eldar army commission for Bryan.
 |
| Tried to push apart the vanes of this war walker. Sadly, unsuccessful. |
 |
| Started to assemble the guardians from the available bits. |
 |
| Unfortunately missing necessary bits. Not sure where one rangers long rifle barrel ran off to. Hopefully the circus. Hear it is great this time of year. Also missing plenty of bits from guardians to make some of them whole. |
 |
| Here's the state of the army prior to this weekends work. |
Now that brings us present.
 |
| Put these guys together when I had some free time two nights ago. |
 |
| Had some free time before my weekend overnight shift last night and started another squad. |
 |
| Man I thought the axes and bits were a pain. Nope, truly wrong. Especially what I did a few hours ago. |
 |
| Used some blue poster tac to invert one wraithguard to help cure the arms. Sadly it wasn't effective. Even told myself that Zab and Greg were right should've used some plastic glue to help the bits a lot. Will pick up some soon. Considering I now have one more box of these guys left. |
 |
| Had some extra time during the curing of the superglue and decided to tackle my Orikan. He was very unbalanced. |
 |
| While ago I glued a penny to the bottom then greystuffed some magnets to the bottom which did not help his balance issue. |
 |
| Finally all the glue is cured. |
 |
| Attempted to invert Orikan so the edible glue would cure. Decided to let gravity do the work for me and stand him upright. |
 |
| This Orikan on his new base. Going to greystuff a large magnet to the bottom for weight and display board. Somewhere that little green orb to the left appeared. Pretty sure it was on Orikan somewhere was unable to find where. I'll tackle that in the morning after I'm done with my shift. |
slainte mhath
Super glue for resin, finecast, and metal. (Though metal I always find you need some green stuff, or a super glue activator). Plastic glue for plastic! (love taimya thin)
ReplyDeletehttp://tibbsforge.com/tamiya-cement/
One thing you have to keep in mind (when you do switch to plastic glue). Plastic glue works by MELTING the plastic. You will not be able to undo with joins without damaging or destroying the model. It won't pop off like super glue. Also gotta be careful where the plastic glue ends up, as it will damage the plastic if you drip some on the model and let it sit.
Orikan is looking awesome.
I do love plastic glue, thick GW version, for plastic models. Gives you a lot of time to move bits around and then holds tight while working and strong bond because of the melting and mixing of the bits. Forgot about the melting of details when the glue lands elsewhere. Remember experiencing that when I was assembling my Dark Angels/Adeptus Mechanicus army.
DeleteDo love my superglue because you can separate pieces easily. Think I might stick with my loctite thick gel superglue.
The loctite glue is my favorite glue by far. It was my go to until I swapped to plastic. I usually buy out my craft store when I stop by (of the loctite stuff). It just works so well on everything.
DeleteI mainly swapped to plastic glue because it can help hide joints because it melds the plastic together. I haven't really experienced that effect, but kinda of got used to using it now...
The meka dread I just built has an entire bottle of the loctite in it...
An entire bottle of loctite for the meka dread? Damn. I know a land raider can take a toll if not empty one of my bottles. Would love to see the superglue on that dread.
DeleteThanks for the kind words on Orikan. Painted him a couple of years ago. Just getting around to rebasing him.
I do not trust the joins of the ork FW dreads...so I pin them, glue them, then jam that bottle in there and SQUEEEEEEZE until the entire area is just super saturated with super glue. :)
DeleteThat's almost exactly what I was thinking you were doing. FW says it all. Sometimes, well most of the time, those molds and bits just don't line up. It is like they do that on purpose.
DeleteGood call with the pinning. I often do the same with jamming the nozzle in the joint and squeezing a ton of glue to fill the space. Then remove excess to avoid clogging surrounding detail.