Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Forgeworld Kaela Mensha Khaine part 1

Shawn handed me this bad boy several months ago.  Couldn't put anytime into it since I was working furiously on my Grey Knights.  Now that they are effectively done time to get back to the murder table.

JJ typing, here's work on Ayce00's Forgeworld Avatar.  You're probably saying "What?  This blog has posts of models being worked on.  That is weird."  Frankly I'm saying the same.  This is from about 4 sessions of work.  Instead of posting multiple parts showing little progress wanted to make one post showing a lot.

This was surprisingly difficult.  Wanted to pin the hair to the head.

This was the most difficult pinning I've ever done.

This took Way too long to accomplish.  Never thought pinning these three parts together would be so much of a hassle.

Colour by colour Citadel paints are being made into airbrushing paints.  Really like the fact that I only have to buy the boston bottle once.  When running low on a paint buy a new pot and fill the bottle.

Zab asked in a previous post about the blue tint of Windex possibly tinting the paint.  I was also curious.  Here is pic of windex used to pull the remaining paint from a pot and pot without Windex.  I say pull paint from a pot because that is what it does.  Instead of measuring the contents of the boston bottle I spray Windex into the paint pot.  Then I shake up the paint pot so the Windex can "pull" the paint that resisted pouring into the bottle.  Unfortunately didn't think to take a pic of the pot after the Windex internal wash.  Next time will.  I'm surprised how easily it cleans the pot.  I'll let you guess which paint pot has Windex in it.  Won't reveal that til the end of the post.

Citadel paints made into airbrush paints.  They look remarkably close the pot colour.  Can barely see the blue hue.

Little tip from the Iwata book is to remove the nozzle cap for a fine line.

My airbrushing skills leaves much to be desired.  Will have to practice more with it to get the thin lines I want.

This side is better because of the spacing between the breaks in the Avatar's molten body.  Can see where the heat hasn't spread to the parts that are farther from the breaks.  Have an idea how to soften the red without muting it completely.  Good evenings work.

Forgot the broken surface on his collar bones and neck.  Also hit the face with the airbrush.

This turned out much better than expected.  Blazing Orange airbrush over Scarlet Red.

Since I'm doing this model backwards decided to put in some lines of Army Painter Mat White.  Idea is when yellow is painted into the cracks the white will make some yellow areas brighter.  Like molten lava.  Some parts are hotter than others.

Figured this would be a great place to show the change of hotter to cooler colours.  Broken mantle is the hottest.  That gets Flash Gitz Yellow.  Then with a little work with airbrush I hope you can see the bleed from Blazing Orange to Scarlet Red (again that colour blindness is affecting me).  Then there's Abaddon Black airbrushed on the armour.  Plan to go back and make the red more pronounced.

That's it for this evenings work.

Flash Gitz Yellow for breaks in mantle.

Airbrushed Troll Slayer Orange to clean up parts where Army Painter Mat White decided to go outside the line.  This is where I grew as a commission painter.  Asked Ayce00 how he liked it.  He said he couldn't see the difference and trusted me.  I wanted to quit the work on the body here but because he said he trusted me, I knew it wasn't good enough and went further.

Flash Gitz Yellow reinforcing broken mantle.

Watered down Boltgun Metal for boots, bracers and face plate.

Here's the inspiration for this model.  Damn awesome painted model.  Great job, Broken Blade!

As mentioned earlier.  The paint pot that has Windex in it is the left pot.  Surprisingly close to the right pot even with the blue hue of Windex with just residual paint in the pot.  Thanks, Zab.

slainte mhath


  1. Wow! tha is looking really solid. Thanks for taking the time to explore the windex question. There is a difference between the two, but only barley and when using them as layers on the mini it probably works out better since they are a bit translucent and need a brighter hue to really show up. I will totally try it out. I am finding I have to exaggerate my colours when airbrushing in order to have them show up when blending. Thanks and nice work again!

    1. Thanks, Zab.

      Great idea regarding the windex being a bit translucent and helping out with brighter hue.

      I have experienced the same, Zab. When blending colours have to exaggerate to get them to stand out. My Grey Knights Rhinos had vague dark and light grey airbrush highlight. Wasn't til I hit it with black and white that it was noticable.


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